Volume 15, Issue 1 - March 2015


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Revista de Gestão Costeira Integrada
Volume 15, Número 1, Março 2015, Páginas 9-19

DOI: 10.5894/rgci524
* Submission: 13 JUN 2014; Peer review: 25 JUL 2014; Revised: 11 DEC 2014; Accepted: XX DEC 2014; Available on-line: 16 DEC 2014  

Processes controlling the seasonal cycle of wave-dominated inlets *  

Xavier Bertin@, a; André B. Fortunatob; Guillaume Dodeta

@ - Corresponding author to whom correspondence should be addressed.
a - UMR 7266 LIENSs, CNRS-La Rochelle University, 2 rue Olympe de Gouges, 17000 La Rochelle, France. e-mails: Bertin <xbertin@univlr. fr>; Dodet <[email protected]>
b - Laboratório Nacional de Engenharia Civil, Avenida do Brasil, 101, Lisboa, Portugal. e-mail: <[email protected]>      

This paper reviews the physical processes controlling wave-dominated inlets, based on several studies conducted at two inlets located on the West Coast of Portugal. Once the observed hydrodynamics and morphological changes are reasonably simulated, numerical experiments are performed to explain the development of the inlet during fair weather conditions and its shoaling and closure during winter storms. The former behaviour is explained by a tidal distortion that promotes ebbdominance while the latter is explained by the combination of several wave-related processes: (1) the “bulldozer effect” due to the shore-normal component of wave forces; (2) the presence of lateral barotropic pressure gradients, accelerating longshore flows towards the inlet; (3) wave blocking during the ebb and (4) a rise in mean sea level, peaking in late autumn. Recent results also suggest that infragravity waves may play a major role. 

Keywords: Tidal inlets, wave-induced processes, wave blocking, infragravity, Óbidos lagoon, Albufeira lagoon.   

Processos que controlam o ciclo sazonal de embocaduras dominadas pelas ondas

Apresenta-se uma revisão dos processos físicos que controlam a dinâmica de embocaduras dominadas pelas ondas, com base em vários estudos conduzidos em duas embocaduras localizadas na zona costeira centro de Portugal. As análises são conduzidas com modelos morfodinâmicos, que reproduzem adequadamente a hidrodinâmica e a evolução morfológica observadas. Experiências numéricas são efetuadas para explicar o desenvolvimento das embocaduras durante o verão marítimo e a sua colmatação e fecho durante tempestades de inverno. O primeiro comportamento é explicado pela distorção da maré que promove a dominância da vazante, enquanto o segundo se explica pela combinação de vários processos relacionados com a agitação marítima: (1) o “efeito bulldozer” devido à componente transversal à costa das forças devidas às ondas; (2) a presença de gradientes laterais de pressão barotrópica, que aceleram as correntes longitudinas em direcção à embocadura; (3) o bloqueamento das ondas durante a vazante e (4) o ciclo sazonal do nível médio do mar, cujo pico ocorre no outono. Resultados recentes sugerem ainda que as ondas infragravíticas podem ter um papel importante nesta dinâmca.     

Palavras-chave: embocaduras de maré, processos induzidos pelas ondas, bloqueamento das ondas, ondas infragravíticas, lagoa de Óbidos, Lagoa de Albufeira. 


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