Volume 15, Issue 1 - March 2015
- Abstract / Resumo
- References / Bibliografia
- Citations / Citações
Revista de Gestão Costeira
Integrada
Volume
15, Número 1, Março 2015, Páginas 9-19
DOI: 10.5894/rgci524
* Submission: 13 JUN 2014; Peer review: 25 JUL 2014; Revised: 11 DEC
2014; Accepted: XX DEC 2014; Available on-line: 16 DEC 2014
Processes controlling the seasonal cycle of wave-dominated
inlets *
Xavier Bertin@, a; André B. Fortunatob; Guillaume Dodeta
@ - Corresponding author to whom
correspondence should be addressed.
a - UMR 7266 LIENSs, CNRS-La Rochelle University, 2 rue Olympe de
Gouges,
17000 La Rochelle, France. e-mails: Bertin <xbertin@univlr. fr>;
Dodet <gdodet01@univ-lr.fr>
b - Laboratório Nacional de Engenharia Civil, Avenida do Brasil, 101,
Lisboa, Portugal. e-mail:
<afortunato@lnec.pt>
ABSTRACT
This paper reviews the physical processes controlling wave-dominated inlets, based on several studies conducted at two inlets located on the West Coast of Portugal. Once the observed hydrodynamics and morphological changes are reasonably simulated, numerical experiments are performed to explain the development of the inlet during fair weather conditions and its shoaling and closure during winter storms. The former behaviour is explained by a tidal distortion that promotes ebbdominance while the latter is explained by the combination of several wave-related processes: (1) the “bulldozer effect” due to the shore-normal component of wave forces; (2) the presence of lateral barotropic pressure gradients, accelerating longshore flows towards the inlet; (3) wave blocking during the ebb and (4) a rise in mean sea level, peaking in late autumn. Recent results also suggest that infragravity waves may play a major role.
Keywords: Tidal inlets, wave-induced processes, wave blocking, infragravity, Óbidos lagoon, Albufeira lagoon.
Processos que controlam o ciclo sazonal de embocaduras dominadas pelas ondas
RESUMOApresenta-se uma revisão dos processos físicos que controlam a dinâmica de embocaduras dominadas pelas ondas, com base em vários estudos conduzidos em duas embocaduras localizadas na zona costeira centro de Portugal. As análises são conduzidas com modelos morfodinâmicos, que reproduzem adequadamente a hidrodinâmica e a evolução morfológica observadas. Experiências numéricas são efetuadas para explicar o desenvolvimento das embocaduras durante o verão marítimo e a sua colmatação e fecho durante tempestades de inverno. O primeiro comportamento é explicado pela distorção da maré que promove a dominância da vazante, enquanto o segundo se explica pela combinação de vários processos relacionados com a agitação marítima: (1) o “efeito bulldozer” devido à componente transversal à costa das forças devidas às ondas; (2) a presença de gradientes laterais de pressão barotrópica, que aceleram as correntes longitudinas em direcção à embocadura; (3) o bloqueamento das ondas durante a vazante e (4) o ciclo sazonal do nível médio do mar, cujo pico ocorre no outono. Resultados recentes sugerem ainda que as ondas infragravíticas podem ter um papel importante nesta dinâmca.
Palavras-chave: embocaduras de maré, processos induzidos pelas ondas, bloqueamento das ondas, ondas infragravíticas, lagoa de Óbidos, Lagoa de Albufeira.
Behrens, D.K.;
Bombardelli, F.A.;
Largier, J.L.; Twohy, E. (2009) - Characterization of time and spatial
scales of a migrating river mouth. Geophysical Research Letters,
36(9):L09402 . DOI: 10.1029/2008GL037025
Behrens, D.K.; Bombardelli, F.A.; Largier, J.L.; Twohy, E. (2013) - Episodic closure of the tidal inlet at the mouth of the Russian River – A small bar-built estuary in California, Geomorphology, 189(1):66-80. DOI: 10.1016/j.geomorph.2013.01.017
Bertin, X.; Oliveira, A.; Fortunato, A.B. (2009a) - Simulating morphodynamics with unstructured grids: description and validation
of a modelling system for coastal applications. Ocean modelling,
28(1-3):75-87. DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2008.11.001
Bertin X.; Fortunato, A.B.; Oliveira, A. (2009b) - A modeling-based
analysis of processes driving wave-dominated inlets. Continental
Shelf Research, 29(5-6):819-834. DOI: 10.1016/j.csr.2008.12.019
Bertin, X.; Fortunato, A.B.; Oliveira, A. (2009c) - Morphodynamic
Modeling of the Ancao Inlet, South Portugal. Journal of Coastal
Research, SI56:10-14, Coastal Education & Research Foundation,
Lisboa, Portugal. Available on-line at http://www.jstor.org/stable/
25737527
Bertin, X.: Bruneau, N.; Breilh, J.F.: Fortunato, A.B.; Karpytchev,
M. (2012) - Importance of wave age and resonance in storm
surges: the case Xynthia, Bay of Biscay. Ocean Modelling,
42(4):16-30. DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2011.11.001
Booij, N.; Ris, R.; Holthuijsen, L. (1999) - A third-generation wave
model for coastal regions. 1. Model description and validation.
Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 104(C4):7649–7666.
DOI: 10.1029/98JC02622
Bruneau, N.; Fortunato, A.B.; Dodet, G.; Freire, P.; Oliveira, A.;
Bertin, X. (2011) - Future evolution of a tidal inlet due to changes
in wave climate, Sea level and lagoon morphology (Óbidos
lagoon, Portugal). Continental Shelf Research, 31(18):1915-
1930. DOI: 10.1016/j.csr.2011.09.001
Chaumillon, E.; Ozenne, F.; Bertin, X.; Long, N.; Ganthy, F. (2014) - Wave climate and inlet channel meander bend control spit breaching and migration of a new inlet: La Coubre sand spit, France. Journal of Coastal Research, SI66. xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Dastgheib, A.; Roelvink, J.A.; Wang, Z.B. (2008) - Long term process-
basedmorphological modeling of the Marsdiep Tidal Basin. Marine Geology, 256(1-4):90-100. DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2008.10.003
Dodet, G.; Bertin, X.; Taborda, R. (2010) - Wave climate variability
in the North-East Atlantic Ocean over the last six decades.
Ocean Modelling, 31(3-4):120-131. DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2009.10.010
Dodet, G.; Bertin, X.; Bruneau, B.; Fortunato, A.B.; Nahon, A.; Roland,
A. (2013) - Wave-current interactions in a wavedominated tidal inlet. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 118(3):1587–1605. DOI: 10.1002/jgrc.20146
Dodet, G., (2013) - Morphodynamic modelling of a wave-dominated
tidal inlet: the Albufeira Lagoon. 181p., PhD thesis, La Rochelle
University, La Rochelle, France. Unpublished
Engelund, F.; Hansen, E. (1967) - A monograph on sediment transport
in aluvial streams. 63p., Teknisk Forlag, Technical University of Danmark, Copenhagen, Denmark. Available on-line at http://repository.tudelft.nl/
view/hydro/uuid%3A81101b08-04b5-4082-9121-861949c336c9/
Fortunato, A.B., Oliveira, A. (2004). A modeling system for tidally
driven long-term morphodynamics. Journal of Hydraulic Research,
42(4):426-434. DOI: 10.1080/00221686.2004.9728408
Fortunato, A.B.; Oliveira, A. (2007) - Case study: promoting the
stability of the Óbidos lagoon inlet. Journal of Hydraulic Engineering,
133(7):816-824. DOI: 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-9429(2007)133:7(816)
Fortunato, A.B.; Nahon, A.; Dodet, G.; Pires, A.R.; Freitas, M.C.;
Bruneau, N.; Azevedo, A.; Bertin, X.; Benevides, P.; Andrade, C.; Oliveira, A. (2014) - Morphological evolution of an ephemeral tidal inlet from opening to closure: the Albufeira inlet, Portugal. Continental Shelf Research, 73:49-63. DOI: 10.1016/j.csr.2013.11.005
Friedrichs, C.T.; Aubrey, D.G. (1988) - Non-linear tidal distortion in
shallow well-mixed estuaries: a synthesis. Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, 27(5):521-545. DOI: 10.1016/0272-7714(88)90082-0
Hagemann, B.P. (1969) - Development of the western part of the
Netherlands during the Holocene. Geologie en Mijnbouw, 48:373-388.
Oliveira, A.; Fortunato, A.B.; Rego, J.R.L. (2006) - Effect of morphological
changes on the hydrodynamics and flushing properties of the Óbidos lagoon (Portugal). Continental Shelf Research, 26(8):917-942. DOI: 10.1016/j.csr.2006.02.011
Ranasinghe, R.; Pattiaratchi, C.; Masselink, G. (1999) - The seasonal
closure of tidal inlets: Wilson Inlet, a case study. Coastal Engineering,
37(1):37-56. DOI: 10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00007-1
Roelvink, J.A.; Reniers, A.; van Dongeren, A.; de Vries, J. van Thiel; McCall, R.; Lescinski, J. (2009) - Modeling storm impacts on beaches, dunes and barrier islands. Coastal Engineering, 56(11-12):1133-1152. DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2009.08.006
Roland, A.; Zhang, Y.J.; Wang, H.V.; Meng, Y.; Teng, Y-C.; Maderich, V.; Brovchenko, I.; Dutour-Sikiric, M.; Zanke, U. (2012) - A fully coupled 3D wave-current interaction model on unstructured grids. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 117(C11):C00J33. DOI: 10.1029/2012JC007952
Shuttleworth, B.; Woidt, A.; Paparella, T.; Herbig, S.; Walker, D. (2005) - The dynamic behaviour of a river-dominated tidal inlet, river Murray, Australia, Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, 64(4):645-657. DOI: 10.1016/j.ecss.2005.04.007
Soulsby, R., (1997) - Dynamics of Marine Sands: A Manual for Practical Applications. 249p., Thomas Telford, Wallingford, U.K. ISBN: 978-0727725844.
Tung, T.T.,Walstra, D.J., Graaff, J. van de and Stive, M. (2009) -
Morphological modeling of tidal inlet migration and closure. Journal of Coastal Research (ISSN: 0749-0258), SI56:1080–1084. Coastal Education & Research Foundation, Lisboa, Portugal. Available on-line at http://www.cerf-jcr.org/images/stories/1080.1084_T.T.Tung_ICS2009.pdf
Westhuysen, A. (2012) - Spectral modeling of wave dissipation on
negative current gradients. Coastal Engineering, 68:17–30.
DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.05.001
Zhang, Y.; Witter, R.W.; Priest, G.P. (2011) - Nonlinear tsunamitide
interaction in1964 Prince William Sound tsunami. Ocean Modelling, 40(3–4):246–259. DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2011.09.005
Behrens, D.K.; Bombardelli, F.A.; Largier, J.L.; Twohy, E. (2013) - Episodic closure of the tidal inlet at the mouth of the Russian River – A small bar-built estuary in California, Geomorphology, 189(1):66-80. DOI: 10.1016/j.geomorph.2013.01.017
Bertin, X.; Oliveira, A.; Fortunato, A.B. (2009a) - Simulating morphodynamics with unstructured grids: description and validation
of a modelling system for coastal applications. Ocean modelling,
28(1-3):75-87. DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2008.11.001
Bertin X.; Fortunato, A.B.; Oliveira, A. (2009b) - A modeling-based
analysis of processes driving wave-dominated inlets. Continental
Shelf Research, 29(5-6):819-834. DOI: 10.1016/j.csr.2008.12.019
Bertin, X.; Fortunato, A.B.; Oliveira, A. (2009c) - Morphodynamic
Modeling of the Ancao Inlet, South Portugal. Journal of Coastal
Research, SI56:10-14, Coastal Education & Research Foundation,
Lisboa, Portugal. Available on-line at http://www.jstor.org/stable/
25737527
Bertin, X.: Bruneau, N.; Breilh, J.F.: Fortunato, A.B.; Karpytchev,
M. (2012) - Importance of wave age and resonance in storm
surges: the case Xynthia, Bay of Biscay. Ocean Modelling,
42(4):16-30. DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2011.11.001
Booij, N.; Ris, R.; Holthuijsen, L. (1999) - A third-generation wave
model for coastal regions. 1. Model description and validation.
Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 104(C4):7649–7666.
DOI: 10.1029/98JC02622
Bruneau, N.; Fortunato, A.B.; Dodet, G.; Freire, P.; Oliveira, A.;
Bertin, X. (2011) - Future evolution of a tidal inlet due to changes
in wave climate, Sea level and lagoon morphology (Óbidos
lagoon, Portugal). Continental Shelf Research, 31(18):1915-
1930. DOI: 10.1016/j.csr.2011.09.001
Chaumillon, E.; Ozenne, F.; Bertin, X.; Long, N.; Ganthy, F. (2014) - Wave climate and inlet channel meander bend control spit breaching and migration of a new inlet: La Coubre sand spit, France. Journal of Coastal Research, SI66. xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Dastgheib, A.; Roelvink, J.A.; Wang, Z.B. (2008) - Long term process-
basedmorphological modeling of the Marsdiep Tidal Basin. Marine Geology, 256(1-4):90-100. DOI: 10.1016/j.margeo.2008.10.003
Dodet, G.; Bertin, X.; Taborda, R. (2010) - Wave climate variability
in the North-East Atlantic Ocean over the last six decades.
Ocean Modelling, 31(3-4):120-131. DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2009.10.010
Dodet, G.; Bertin, X.; Bruneau, B.; Fortunato, A.B.; Nahon, A.; Roland,
A. (2013) - Wave-current interactions in a wavedominated tidal inlet. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 118(3):1587–1605. DOI: 10.1002/jgrc.20146
Dodet, G., (2013) - Morphodynamic modelling of a wave-dominated
tidal inlet: the Albufeira Lagoon. 181p., PhD thesis, La Rochelle
University, La Rochelle, France. Unpublished
Engelund, F.; Hansen, E. (1967) - A monograph on sediment transport
in aluvial streams. 63p., Teknisk Forlag, Technical University of Danmark, Copenhagen, Denmark. Available on-line at http://repository.tudelft.nl/
view/hydro/uuid%3A81101b08-04b5-4082-9121-861949c336c9/
Fortunato, A.B., Oliveira, A. (2004). A modeling system for tidally
driven long-term morphodynamics. Journal of Hydraulic Research,
42(4):426-434. DOI: 10.1080/00221686.2004.9728408
Fortunato, A.B.; Oliveira, A. (2007) - Case study: promoting the
stability of the Óbidos lagoon inlet. Journal of Hydraulic Engineering,
133(7):816-824. DOI: 10.1061/(ASCE)0733-9429(2007)133:7(816)
Fortunato, A.B.; Nahon, A.; Dodet, G.; Pires, A.R.; Freitas, M.C.;
Bruneau, N.; Azevedo, A.; Bertin, X.; Benevides, P.; Andrade, C.; Oliveira, A. (2014) - Morphological evolution of an ephemeral tidal inlet from opening to closure: the Albufeira inlet, Portugal. Continental Shelf Research, 73:49-63. DOI: 10.1016/j.csr.2013.11.005
Friedrichs, C.T.; Aubrey, D.G. (1988) - Non-linear tidal distortion in
shallow well-mixed estuaries: a synthesis. Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, 27(5):521-545. DOI: 10.1016/0272-7714(88)90082-0
Hagemann, B.P. (1969) - Development of the western part of the
Netherlands during the Holocene. Geologie en Mijnbouw, 48:373-388.
Oliveira, A.; Fortunato, A.B.; Rego, J.R.L. (2006) - Effect of morphological
changes on the hydrodynamics and flushing properties of the Óbidos lagoon (Portugal). Continental Shelf Research, 26(8):917-942. DOI: 10.1016/j.csr.2006.02.011
Ranasinghe, R.; Pattiaratchi, C.; Masselink, G. (1999) - The seasonal
closure of tidal inlets: Wilson Inlet, a case study. Coastal Engineering,
37(1):37-56. DOI: 10.1016/S0378-3839(99)00007-1
Roelvink, J.A.; Reniers, A.; van Dongeren, A.; de Vries, J. van Thiel; McCall, R.; Lescinski, J. (2009) - Modeling storm impacts on beaches, dunes and barrier islands. Coastal Engineering, 56(11-12):1133-1152. DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2009.08.006
Roland, A.; Zhang, Y.J.; Wang, H.V.; Meng, Y.; Teng, Y-C.; Maderich, V.; Brovchenko, I.; Dutour-Sikiric, M.; Zanke, U. (2012) - A fully coupled 3D wave-current interaction model on unstructured grids. Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 117(C11):C00J33. DOI: 10.1029/2012JC007952
Shuttleworth, B.; Woidt, A.; Paparella, T.; Herbig, S.; Walker, D. (2005) - The dynamic behaviour of a river-dominated tidal inlet, river Murray, Australia, Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, 64(4):645-657. DOI: 10.1016/j.ecss.2005.04.007
Soulsby, R., (1997) - Dynamics of Marine Sands: A Manual for Practical Applications. 249p., Thomas Telford, Wallingford, U.K. ISBN: 978-0727725844.
Tung, T.T.,Walstra, D.J., Graaff, J. van de and Stive, M. (2009) -
Morphological modeling of tidal inlet migration and closure. Journal of Coastal Research (ISSN: 0749-0258), SI56:1080–1084. Coastal Education & Research Foundation, Lisboa, Portugal. Available on-line at http://www.cerf-jcr.org/images/stories/1080.1084_T.T.Tung_ICS2009.pdf
Westhuysen, A. (2012) - Spectral modeling of wave dissipation on
negative current gradients. Coastal Engineering, 68:17–30.
DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2012.05.001
Zhang, Y.; Witter, R.W.; Priest, G.P. (2011) - Nonlinear tsunamitide
interaction in1964 Prince William Sound tsunami. Ocean Modelling, 40(3–4):246–259. DOI: 10.1016/j.ocemod.2011.09.005
em construção